From the Field: Manaslu

Manaslu Conservation Area

Interview with Lhakpa Lama

Lhakpa Lama is an experienced trekking guide. He has been in the travel and tourism field for over five years and is also an Assistant Community Leader of Lho village (Lhakpa’s village) in Northern Gorkha. It falls along the trekking route to Mt. Manaslu. 

In this interview, Lhakpa shares the difference he observed between remote villagers in Nubri’s concern about COVID-19 to those living in Kathmandu. According to Lhakpa, villagers in the Manaslu area seemed more concerned; however, those living in Kathmandu seemed to live a relatively normal life.

Virtual interview date: 26th January 2021

Kunsang Choden: Have tourists started coming to the Manaslu area, and is the area open for tourists to visit?

Lhakpa Lama: Yes, recently, the Nepal government has opened the tourism sector. It was not opened earlier [during the peak COVID-19 time June, July], but now a few local tourists have started to visit here. I also see a few recent updates where people post tourists visiting places like Rho and Samagaun [upper Manaslu areas]. The tourism sector is open in Nepal. 

KC: What are the current Covid-19 protocols from the government of Nepal? 

LL: In the past, those entering the Manaslu area were required to bring PCR tests with negative results. They were not allowed to engage with the community people and were asked to stay in quarantine for two weeks. But now, these rules are no longer in action. In a month or two, the COVID-19 vaccine may be available.  When I was in the village, I haven’t seen much social engagement between villagers and outsiders. But as I came here to Kathmandu, everything seems normal here. The only different thing was the number of people wearing masks. Other than that, things seem normal here. Even then, if you go to a village, there is not a particular type of restriction. Hotels are opened. 

KC: Have you been on trek this year?

LL: Ah, this year, it’s zero. 

KC: So you came from the village to Kathmandu. What kinds of health safety measures did you observe the local lodge owners follow?

LL: In most cases, it’s looked normal to the most part. Some hotels and lodges might be washing the bedsheets after every customer. It’s based on what I hear from them. Else, it’s normal. 

KC: Do they (lodge owners) wear masks?

LL: In the village, they don’t wear masks, but as you come down valley such as Marche Khola and below, people wear masks. 

So the most important thing was that if you are coming from Kathmandu, you need to have the PCR test completed with a negative test result because until now, the Manaslu area is COVID-19 green zone. I feel it’s essential to have a PCR report. 

KC: In the past, people were not allowed to go from one place to another, so an individual who traveled had to show their PCR report. Do people now also have to show their PCR report? 

LL: Right now, there is no mention that you have to show, and there is no one to check too. But just to make sure [you are COVID-19 free], it is good to check.

KC: During the peak COVID-19 time (June-July 2020),  people used to stay in quarantine in Jakat. Is that still practiced? If it is no longer in practice, when did it stop? 

LL: I can’t recall the exact month, but it has been around three-four months since it stopped. 

KC: Personally, which health safety guideline do you mainly follow? 

LL: I limited social gatherings, wore masks, used sanitizer, and paid attention to personal hygiene. I have an elderly family member here, my mother, so whenever I head out, I wear a mask, and when coming home, I wash my hands. There aren’t many new implementations here. In the past, there was quarantine in Jagat. Now that’s lifted. Government officials themselves travel around between villages during COVID-19 time, so we can’t stop the local people from traveling if the government officials fail to become good examples. Although things appear normal, they may not be 100% normal. 

KC: Do you think that trekking at this time is safe for you?

LL: Looking at the current situation, it doesn’t feel 100% safe to trek. Covid-19 is not fully controlled in Nepal. 

Now, although Kathmandu seems to be running normally, there are chances of getting the disease. If  I happen to trek during this time, and if the disease spreads in the Manaslu area, the blame may come on me. It is a risk that I do not wish to take. 

Also, we hear the number of COVID cases each day in the news. It’s still going on. So, to feel 100% safe is not possible right now. 

KC: So, do you think it is safe for the visitors to come trekking?

LL: The Manaslu area is 100% safe for tourists because we have no COVID-19 cases here until now. 

KC: What about the people living there? Will they feel safe having visitors in the area at this time?

LL: Now that depends whether the visitors are free of COVID-19 or not. 

KC: Do you think that people living in Kathmandu are taking enough safety precautions?

LL: Here in Kathmandu, people are taking safety precautions, but people living in the Manaslu area are better and safer than here [Kathmandu]. 

KC: In a day, how many people around you wear the mask? 

LL: Around 95% wear a mask.

KC: What about in the public buses? Do people wear mask?

LL: I don’t use public buses right now. It’s either my friend’s scooter or I take a taxi. 

KC: From where do you get information about COVID-19?

LL: Actually, I don’t remember that, maybe from Facebook and news channels. I don’t have a specific channel, but I used to watch Kantipur Television and BBC news for COVID-19 updates in the village. Also, whenever we are around friends, the discussion is mostly about COVID-19. 

KC: Do you feel that people in remote areas such as Nubri (higher Manaslu area) are more concerned about COVID-19 than those living in Kathmandu?

LL: Yes, yes, people in the village are very concerned about COVID-19 than those living in Kathmandu. For example, it has been twenty-five days since I have been here in Kathmandu. When I was in the village, we were very concerned. Once I reach Kathmandu, I thought that I wouldn’t be going outside, but once I reached here, it was totally different from what I had imagined (laughs).  

KC: Have you heard any contradictory information about COVID-19 from the different sources you receive news about COVID-19?

LL: I believe everyone has different views on this. Some say that it’s the U.S. government’s plan against the Chinese government (laughs), and others say, “No, no, the Chinese people eat seafood, and it came from that.” So different opinions and I am not 100% clear on this. 

KC: So, of the sources, you get your information from, which sources do you think are most trustworthy? 

LL: For global updates on Covid-19, I’d say the BBC news, and for the local update, I go for Kantipur Television. I feel they are more reliable because they speak based on data, unlike discussions with friends and families.

KC: What do you think should be done to control COVID-19 better?

LL: It’s not just through the air by air, but through one sick person to the next person, so it is important to identify and control the sick person from getting in contact non-sick person. 

KC: What do you think should be done in updating people about the best practices?

LL: In the village, around five hotel owners have TV and a few other people, but the rest of them get information from social media such as Facebook through their cell phones. Also, only the hotel owners have Wifi, so I go there if I have to use the internet.

KC: Do you feel fully informed, and what about the villagers?

LL: Yes, I do. We also have village nurses who train and inform people about COVID-19. They teach them about ways to stay safe, social distance, and take nutritious diets. 

Manaslu Conservation Area

Interview with Sonam Bhuti

Sonam Bhuti, from Tsum valley (3,200m above sea level) in upper Northern Gorkha of Nepal, is a finance and project coordinator at Earth C-Air (NGO). In addition to six years in the trekking field as a professional guide, Sonam is a trained rock climber and an emergency helicopter rescuer. In this interview, she shares the need for social responsibility from Nepal’s government, her first-hand observation of COVID-19 safety lodge protocols in action in the Solu Khumbu area, and her personal opinion if the travel and tourism industry should be open to visitors at this time.

The following interview was conducted virtually on January 24, 2021.

Kunsang Choden: What are the current COVID-19 health safety guidelines from Nepal’s government for travel and tourism?

Sonam Bhuti: Social distancing, wearing a mask, international travelers need to show their PCR report, and hotel owners are asked to limit the number of people they host. These rules are quite similar at the village level because Gaunpalika follows the government protocols. But I haven’t seen a strict implementation of these rules and regulations. You are aware of how the government of Nepal works, right? 

KC: How are you compiling with health safety protocols?

SB: I change my mask each day, wear and change gloves regularly. I use hand sanitizer. Those coming from remote villages won’t have such facilities.

KC: At your current workplace, what of the health safety guidelines you find is most effective? 

SB: At my workplace, each person is assigned a room. I feel such management is effective and feel safe. For example, if we have fourteen people in the past, now we are limited to eight people. Before, we used to have lunch in a group, but after the pandemic, we take our food to our offices. If we have to communicate with each other, we do it through phone calls.

KC: After the start of the pandemic, have you had the opportunity to travel?

SB: Yes, I made a private trip with my friends. We climbed Mera Peak and Lobuche Peak. They’re in the Solu Khumbu area, and it took us 22 days. 

KC: What were the health safety protocols that you all followed? 

SB: We wore masks, used hand sanitizer. Everything else was normal. We were careful. There wasn’t much income from the travel and tourism industry this year. Community people were welcoming to us.

KC: So during your trip, what were the hotel and lodge owners’ health safety protocols? 

SB: They also made us wash our hands as soon as we arrived. I was impressed. If it’s a two-person room, they allow only one person per room. We were socially distanced during dining time. 

KC: Do you think that trekking and climbing at this time are safe for you?

SB: I don’t think so. People here don’t take much caution. I also advised my clients not to come this spring. We all have a different immunity system. So I’m a little reluctant to take this risk at this time. So I advised my clients to come next October. It’s very crowded here, and people don’t take much caution. We don’t know when the vaccination will be available here. So it’s very risky right now. 

KC: Do you believe that wearing a mask will slow down the spread of this disease? 

SB: I feel wearing a mask is very important. Even if 20 people out of 100 wear masks, it saves lives. Since this disease is spread through the air, a mask is important. But one must make sure that it’s a good quality mask. I use N-95. 

KC: Do people in Kathmandu wear masks?

SB: 90% wears a mask. The 10% who don’t wear masks are mostly the ones who can’t afford it. For example, I haven’t seen people who live in the street wearing masks or trash collectors. It’s normal and crowded here. To some extent, this also provides a calmer state of mind to see people continuing everyday life. The government hasn’t done much in regard to COVID-19 control. Hunger drives normal people to continue daily chores. Neither the government nor the people can control hunger. And if the government wants to control COVID-19, they have to perform their duty well. One of the biggest problems in Nepal is the government’s inaction.

KC: Where do you get COVID-19 related news?

SB: I follow CNN news on social media. The routine of Nepal Banda used to update about COVID-19 cases in Nepal quite frequently.  

KC: Have you heard any contradictory news from these different sources?

SB: No. But I think CNN is the most trustworthy. I don’t listen to hearsay or social media.

KC: What do you think should be done to control the spread of COVID-19?

SB: Nepal tourism industry has opened since last October. My personal opinion is that the trekking industry remains closed this year for public safety because it will be very difficult in case this disease is to spread in remote areas. Right now, this disease has not spread in remote areas. Because this disease’s symptoms are not shown immediately and hard to tell, I feel it will be better if the trekking industry is not open at least this year. But since the government has opened the tourism industry, people cannot control it, right? It will be good for the Gaunpalika to come up with rules and regulations, but it is difficult to follow these rules and regulations in Nepal. 

KC: do you feel that you are fully informed about COVID-19

SB: Yes, I feel I know well enough and am aware of how to take care of sick people. 

Manaslu Conservation Area

Interview with Pema Norbu Lama

Pema Norbu Lama was born and raised in Tsum valley, with a spiritual depiction of Beyul Kyimulung, a hidden valley of happiness in Northern Gorkha of Nepal. He has been leading trekking groups to Manaslu, Mustang, and Annapurna regions since 2013. 

Pema recently returned from a camping trek in Rupinala and recommends it as an alternative for resuming wilderness adventure during COVID-19.

Interviewer and transcriber: Kunsang Choden (KC)

Interviewee: Pema Norbu Lama (PN)

Virtual interview date: January 21, 2021

Kunsang Choden: What are the current COVID-19 health safety guidelines from Nepal’s government for travel and tourism?

 Pema Norbu: We had strict lockdown during peak pandemic time. Nepal was doing well then. People were following safety protocols, but now, there is no rule. I think after an extended lockdown, the country went into a dire state of economic hardship. More than the pandemic, people were worried about fulfilling daily needs such as food. 

 KC: So what about safety guidelines?

 PN: As for me, I do wear a mask, maintain social distance and use sanitizer.

 KC: In terms of the Manaslu Conservation Area or Nubri gaunpalika, what are the health safety protocols followed at the village level? 

 PN: I have not been to the village during the peak COVID-19 time, but I was in the lower Manaslu area. A fourteen-day of quarantine was in place in Jakat (a village that falls midway to Samagaun and Tsum).  But with the start of Dashain, quarantine was removed. People were allowed to travel. So when we (Pema and friends) made a trip to Rupinala, a week-long wilderness trek, I didn’t see much of the rules and regulations being followed. So, in general, I think it has a lot to do with what the central government was going through (pointing to the country’s economic state mentioned earlier). 

But in terms of my village, Tsum (Chkkampar), certain numbers of people were restricted from entering village during peak COVID-19 time, which lasted for a short period. 

KC: Was this travel restriction strongly followed by tourists or local travelers? 

 PN: During the peak COVID-19 time, traveling, as I mentioned earlier, was very limited. But in the present context, since the government has opened the country, some domestic travelers from Kathmandu make trips there (remote areas such as Manaslu). 

Also, there was one Ph.D. student who wanted to focus his study on Tsum. During Dashain, he was not allowed to travel but later was allowed. When he came back from the field, he mentioned that he had a really good time. He didn’t experience much stigma around COVID-19 there. But that might have been because he had a local guide, my friend, to show him around. 

 KC: Has anyone in the Manaslu area gotten COVID-19? 

 PN: As far as I know, the answer is no. I haven’t heard anything. 

There was a rumor about a boy who traveled to Phillim (a Gurung village on the way to Tsum and Samagaun), but I can’t say that’s true because you cannot say (that it’s COVID-19) without a test. Nepal doesn’t have such facilities for remote places such as Tsum or Nubri area. 

 KC: So how are you complying with those health safety guidelines? 

 PN: Wearing a mask? I do that 100%. Every time I head out or while meeting senior people, I wear a mask. It’s a simple thing to do. Washing hands and using sanitizer, I do those. 

In terms of social distancing, I did follow that in the beginning. But I think there comes a time where it is not practical, especially in places such as Nepal, where there are many people and many still not maintaining social distance. So in terms of me, maybe it’s (social distancing) not practical.

The majority of people around me hardly follow health safety guidelines. Some wear their mask, and some don’t.   

KC: In terms of travel and tourism, do you think it is safe to travel? 

 PN: It might not be safe because we don’t have a proper management system capable of dealing with this situation. With that being said, I don’t think it is safe for people to get exposed to outsiders in terms of Nepal’sHimalayan areas.  

I may go outside of your question (smiles), but it is very important if you look at it economically. There are certain ways where you can make travel happen i.e., through camping trek. 

Camping trek is a way to maintain isolation from the local community. You can still hike, camp, take photographs, and climb mountains. Maybe that is possible. 

Otherwise, based on safety concerns, it’s not recommended for the moment. 

 KC: As a trekking guide, do you think it is safe for you to go trekking right now?

 PN: As mentioned earlier, I do have mixed feelings about it. On the one hand, I feel it is safe to travel. It feels like I am immune. Right now, the environment outside is very normal. There are people everywhere. So with that picture in mind, you know, it feels like COVID-19 is not that serious for Nepalese. This makes me think that it is okay for people like me, a trekking guide, to make trips. And me being a youth, may be I am immune to it. But if you realize and think seriously, maybe not (good to travel), I don’t know. I might infect my guest, or even my guest might come with the disease. 

 KC: Where do you receive your COVID-19 related information? 

 PN: I use social media, Kantipur news, and our government did an excellent thing. The ministry of health has a Viber group (MoHP Nepal COVID-19) to disseminate detailed COVID-19 related updates. The Routine of Nepal Banda was very popular too. 

KC: Have you heard any contradictory information from these different sources? 

PN: No. 

KC: In what way do you feel COVID-19 information can be made accessible to everyone? 

PN: In Nepal? Change the government (laughs jokingly). The answer is the same. Try to abide by the government’s health safety protocols. I don’t want to solely blame the government because they too need to deal with the country’s economic situation. But maybe there are some grey areas where the government could play a role like proper management and proper supervision. I also observed that local governments working at the ground level were also not very effective, the issue of corruption comes into play. If these situations were changed to some extent, then the situation might have improved. 

KC: COVID-19 situation in Nepal is decreasing based on the various statistics. Do you think travel and trekking will resume by October of 2021? 

PN: I am hopeful. But Nepal is already open, you know. Nepal is open. But the thing is, do travelers want to travel at this time? You mentioned the numbers decreasing, but local people don’t pay much attention to the numbers. We don’t trust or rely on that. 

KC: If safe travel is to resume, what do you think could be done to ensure better health safety? 

PN: Exact suggestion, I can’t say, but amongst my friend circle, we try to compare with countries similar to Nepal like say Bhutan. Bhutan is also very tourism-oriented country. It is doing pretty well and has a very low number of cases. I think there have been strict rules, and people were following them strictly. I don’t know, but maybe, it’s not too late (for Nepal to make changes). 

KC: Do you feel you are fully informed about COVID-19?

 PN: In general, yes, I feel I know enough. I don’t have other doubts, but that will be another topic of discussion.